She got religion

Well, not really. But she did get a handshake from one of the most influential and kind human beings ever to walk this planet: Desmond Tutu.

Today is World Refugees Day (so take a moment). As someone who considers herself more conscious than the average person of the plight of the less fortunate, I find myself feeling inadequate at times, especially in the presence of those who have literally lived their lives to serve others.

This morning I went to mass. Before you get all spazzy, just relax. No, I haven’t actually “gotten religion” as they say. And yes, I’m still a Jew (who scrambles to remember the high holidays, but Jew nonetheless). But I have always been interested in other religions and the way that faith is able to guide people, particularly those in conflict. As religion is a common theme in healing, it’s not surprising that I would admire those men and women of the cloth who have participated in resolving conflict.

Anyway, back to the whole mass thing. I had heard from my friend that Desmond Tutu was leading mass at a cathedral in downtown Cape Town. At first, I wasn’t too keen on the whole concept, debating whether or not I could respectfully sit through a service. But seriously, who was I kidding: Desmond Tutu could have read the frickin’ phone book and I still would have showed up.

(For those of you who don’t know about Desmond Tutu, please go read up as he is an incredible person. He is the former Archbishop of Cape Town, was one of the leaders of the Truth and Reconciliation Commission, and a winner of the Nobel Peace Prize.)

So yes, I went to church. An Anglican church. The service started at 7 am. Yes, it was worth it.

While most of the content of the mass didn’t strike a chord (obviously), there was discussion of peace, justice, reconciliation for those living through conflicts around the world. The general idea – as I’ve found with most religious services I’ve attended – is to live your life respectfully and honestly.

Despite being another miserable, winter day here, listening to Tutu warmed us all up.

“He just winked at me!” Agnes exclaimed. Indeed he did.

After the service was over, he said farewell to all those who attended by blessing us and shaking our hands. He may be the only person to truly bless me and for me to feel honored and not offended by it.

And off she goes again to save the world…

TIA

I'm sitting at work, reviewing some articles for the journal. It's a pretty quiet day here, but Main Road is filled with its typical traffic. (This is the main thoroughfare to get from the southern suburbs to downtown and has 4 lanes of traffic, usually occupied by large buses, kombis, and crazy speeding drivers.) In a moment of daydreaming, I realize that a little white object appears to be scampering along the grass next to the hospital. It then jumps up on the bay of public telephones, pauses to look at some people waiting for the bus, then climbs up a tree and appears to vanish.

Yep, it's a monkey. TIA = this is Africa.

Through my eyes

Observations of Cape Town life

Instead of strollers, I frequently see women pushing babies around in shopping carts. Not in the stores, mind you, just out and about.

When people approach you for money (very frequently), they act very polite and reserved. When you tell them you have no money, they do a 180 and call you lots of names, too many to list here, usually in another language (but you can still imagine).

You will always have bizarre passengers with you in the kombis. They usually stare, even if you’re not doing anything.

More kombi facts: the driver may decide at some point that he needs to get more petrol. He may have a full passenger load. There is nothing more awkward then sitting in a kombi, at a gas station, with 15 other people waiting while the driver fills up. Even better is when the gas station is a block from where you need to get out and the driver simply tells you to get out there. Other passengers may advise you to try to get 20 cents (this is basically negative American dollars) back since you had to get out earlier. Best to just get out.

Locals complain about the so-called “winter” here. A lot. Yet they still go surfing year round.

You have to generally buy electricity at the grocery store. There is a box, similar to a credit card swipe machine in the house, that comes with a key card. Credits are listed and decrease as you use up electricity. In order to “buy” more, you go to the grocery store, tell them you want X amount of rand’s worth of electricity and they print out a receipt with a code. You go home, swipe the card or enter the code and voila, more power.

At night, there are vendors selling trinkets, eggs, potato chips, and grilled sausages. All on the same stand.

Common phrases of greeting:

- How you?

- You fine?

- You all right?

- Hiya!

Into the swing of things

Hello my faithful readers!

I am so sorry for having been such a bad blogger this past week. Now that I’m more settled, things really picked up and I never seemed to get around to writing. No fear, here is your much anticipated update…

Last Sunday was the kind of Sunday that one always hopes to have. After sleeping in (FINALLY over the jet lag and used to the pathetic mattress), I ventured down to Hout Bay with a few of my new friends. One of them has been renting a car and is very used to driving – I was quite impressed at the ease with which he navigated the roads while driving on the left AND in a stick shift car (yikes!). We took a scenic route to get down to Hout Bay. Take a look at a map of Cape Town when you have a chance. The center of the city sits higher up on the peninsula than you may think. All along, there are beautiful little towns (still part of the greater Cape Town area) that line the coasts, finally ending at Cape Point which is the south-western most point of the African continent (yep, been there before and will certainly be hitting it up again) where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet. Hout Bay is situated right in a bay (duh) and is filled with seaside restaurants and a lively community. They have one of the nicest (and completely town-run) craft markets on the weekends that you can find. The local crafts here are wonderful. My friends, April and Paul, are from Vermont and live in slippers practically 6 months of the year. A lovely couple was selling handmade sheepskin slippers that you could customize with different leather and appliqués. A matching set was ordered by the Vermonters! April and Paul are expecting and debated about buying little baby-sized slippers as well but ended up just treating themselves. They did buy an incredible soft baby carrier that is quite African looking. There were lots of beads, baskets, paintings, scarves – you name it. There was a photographer who had photos from an previously wealthy diamond mining town in Namibia that had since been abandoned (diamonds may last forever but the mines eventually are exhausted). She had pictures of houses that were once incredibly luxurious and were left abandoned and now were filled with sand! Safari’s are big here as most of you probably know so she also had many pictures of the big 5.

I’m settling in to a routine at work and am loving it. I’ve been reading more journal articles and am excited to see what’s coming up in the world of transitional justice. I’ve been able to really work on my own critical reading skills, discover more CR/TJ sources, and gain amazing insight from reviewers in the field. The pardoning project continues – we finished our draft letters to send to the Pardon Reference Group (PRG) and the Speaker of South Africa’s Parliament. Since a number of organizations will be collaborating on this project, we’ve circulated our letter for feedback. It’s a wonderful way to connect with other NGOs doing important work. Stay tuned, as for when we release a statement to the media, I’ll be sure to post it here. We have a new intern that started this week – she’s a law student (also from the States) and is focusing on human rights. She's not nearly as familiar with TJ as I am but she's definitely bright and eager to learn. We will definitely have a lot to talk about. We’re supposed to get one more intern during the course of my stay, who is originally from Liberia but in a master’s program at Notre Dame. I’m very eager for him to arrive as it’s hard to know what’s really happening on the ground in Monrovia concerning the Truth and Reconciliation work. He’s spent some time there and should be able to give us a better idea of what’s going on. The NGOs that are there are spread very thin and the general consensus is that the process is sort of a mess. Hopefully that’s not the case but even if it is, maybe that will prompt further action and projects…

Monday is a national holiday here so I am looking forward to the long weekend. I plan on exploring a few of the many museums here and possibly seeing a dance or theater performance. The weather is very unpredictable, but you can usually expect wind. As I said before, the heating here is pretty terrible and most of you know how much I HATE being cold so I’m looking forward to at least getting some summer when I return home.

A number of new interns with various organizations have arrived this past week and are living in other houses managed by the same company that mine is. One of them just started working at the Cape Town Refugee Center and she already has incredible stories. There is a huge influx of refugees here and another camp is set to close soon so it’s only going to get worse. From what I’ve heard, between that and the xenophobia attacks, people who have no home or are afraid are really struggling. There is not enough food to feed everyone each day and little is being done to amend that, despite the incredible work of the humanitarian organizations who are already involved. Cape Town may be metropolitan in some parts but it is very much still experiencing the poverty and struggles that plague many African countries. As humanitarian practitioners, we’re constantly reminded to take care of ourselves, as we will be of no use to those who so desperately depend on our help if we’re not healthy and happy. But it’s hard not to let it get to you – comes with the territory, I suppose.

I promise I will be better about blogging. For now, take care all. Sending you much South African love.

A week in the life...

It is hard to believe that I’ve been here a week now. It feels both much longer and much shorter than that. It sounds cheesy but time seems to go differently here. It must be the Cape air…

Living here hasn’t been too much of a culture shock since I’ve been here before and knew what to expect. I’m living in a house with 4 other students/interns in a neighborhood filled with people our age. There are lots of restaurants and bars within walking distance though it’s not really a good idea to be out very late on your own (though a pretty standard rule in any city, I’d say). As most of you know, I live alone back in DC so it’s been a little weird living with more bodies, but I fortunately only have to share a bathroom with one of my housemates – and he’s very neat. The house isn’t heated (most houses here aren’t) and now that it’s winter, it’s pretty chilly and damp (not to mention, the management company decided they wanted to clean our carpets in our room which are not much more than AstroTurf and now fill the house with a delightful moldy smell). Winter here means 50s-60s during the day and maybe into the 40s at night. I must say, it’s pretty weird to wear a coat and scarf in June. It’s also pretty windy but when the sun shines, it’s beautiful. Plus, it’s hard to be sad about slightly chilly weather when you can see Table Mountain from almost any point in the city. Food and drinks are cheap and plentiful here – there’s a great bar around the corner from my house with the best mojitos that are basically $2. The grocery store isn’t as different as I expected (last time I was here I lived in a dorm and ate in a dining hall and didn’t have to shop and cook for myself) but they do charge you for plastic bags which is a great way to get people to remember to use their own.

I’ve finished my first week as an intern in the Transitional Justice Programme at the Centre for the Study of Violence and Reconciliation (CSVR) and am incredibly excited for the weeks ahead. The office is just a 10-minute walk from my house which is wonderful. I’m usually there a regular workday but in South Africa, that’s much more laid back than in the States. No crazy rushing, no to-the-second timing, and lots of leaving early. That doesn’t mean people don’t work hard but it seems much more tolerable. It’s a small office, as the headquarters is in Johannesburg so there are about 6 people working here. Another intern is supposed to arrive next week. After I leave, a new intern will hopefully pick up on my project, if it’s still going (as I’m sure it will be). Most organizations are very conscious of employee health – both mental and physical. They have a monthly budget devoted to “Self Care” which includes everything from pilates to massages. This lucky intern will get to reap the benefits of regular employees. A nice reward for working toward peace, right? I’ll be working on a few different projects while I’m here but mostly focusing on the new presidential pardoning process which is related to sentenced and imprisoned citizens for political crimes during apartheid through 1999. Details of the project can’t be released but as soon as I’m able, I’ll put more up about it. It’s extremely important and I’m so proud to be doing this work. I hope to write a journal article for the International Journal of Transitional Justice (published out of CSVR) as they are keen to have more practitioner articles. Any advice on publishing would be much appreciated!

Last night I went out to dinner with my housemates to a lovely restaurant here in Obs. The food was wonderful and cheap, of course. Meat is plentiful here, mostly lamb, beef, ostrich (pretty gamey but good), and a number of other kinds from local animals. Vegetables are fresh as well and I’m learning to like squash! And the best part is the delicious local wine (a major part of the SA economy). Grocery stores here are stocked very well and with a full kitchen, I can pretty much cook anything. We also have a little grill on our patio though lately it’s been used more for ambiance than function.

Today I went to see a regatta held at the Royal Cape Yacht Club at the waterfront. The program director of some of my friends’ programs is very into sailing (he sailed around the world on some rich European’s yacht for 2 years) so he got us into the club. It’s definitely too chilly for me to go out on the boat and who even wants to guess what the sea is like with this crazy cape wind so most of us stayed ashore and ate at the restaurant, chatted, and admired the boats. It’s a beautiful spot and a neat sight.

Throughout my time here, I’ll be filling all you readers in on as much of the cultural life here as I can. Cape Town is very metropolitan when you head downtown or to the waterfront. Many businesses are based here and it’s also a major port. However, most of the population lives in the surrounding areas, which are technically part of the city proper. The townships are the poorer areas of the city and are divided up mostly by race, ethnic group, etc. On my previous trip here, we visited one of the largest black townships called Langa. It was one of the most humbling experiences of my life. A number of people who are here are teaching in the townships for their internships. One of the groups that my office works with is made up of township residents who were victims of apartheid and is very active in engaging citizens. To get in and out of the city, you can take the trains (most people don’t do that though), take regular buses, or take minibus taxis. The minibus taxi is a true African experience. It’s basically a large van, usually pretty run down, that runs along different routes in and out of the city center and to the waterfront. While it’s made to hold about 12 people, usually there are many more squished in. They drive up and down the main road, with someone yelling the name of the destination at you. It’s incredibly strange at first to walk down the road and have someone scream from an open car window at you every few minutes. You can basically flag them down anywhere and they are INCREDIBLY cheap (it’s about R4 to get to city center from Obs – that’s less than $1). You can’t flag regular taxis here – you have to call one or find a taxi rank (taxi stand) which are in the main parts of the city. They’re pretty cheap and certainly more comfortable than the minibus but it’s always an adventure to take the minibus.

Tonight is a big South African rugby match (HUGELY popular here) so I may end up watching it in a bar, but this little peacemaker is totally wiped. After a full week of madness and not enough sleep, I may need a restful night. Tomorrow a bunch of us plan on going to one of the biggest craft markets in the city which sells absolutely everything. It was one of my favorite experiences from my previous trip, as you can usually watch the merchants working on crafts as they sell. Many a present will be bought there!

I think it may be time for a nap. For those of you who are on facebook, some pictures are already up. I will also be making albums through KodakGallery.com as well and will post the link once they’re up.

Take care all.

8000 miles later

I have arrived.

One long flight to Jo'burg + another plane ride to Cape Town after navigating through the confusing JHB airport + one cab ride + after small mishap with incorrect keys subsequently remedied by housemates coming home AND landlord driving here with correct keys = one weary traveler, indeed.

Despite a hectic 48 hours, I made it to South Africa in one piece (and with all my luggage, mind you, an impressive feat on this continent). After so much planning and excitement, it's hard to believe that I'm FINALLY here. But here I sit, in my room in my quaint little house in Observatory (Obs, to those in the know) trying not to fall asleep. And yes, it's 6 hours AHEAD here but I'm one tired cookie.

I ventured out with my Dutch housemate and his South African girlfriend to the nearby grocery store for some basics. This turned out to be a bit of an overwhelming task as I have trouble planning meals for myself even in the District. Now factor in prices that appear to be 7x what I'm used to. I walked away with pasta, fish, bottled water, frozen veggies, and tea and cookies. I promise I will properly nourish myself once I get my bearings.

Speaking of which, the real routine will begin tomorrow. I start work at 11 am (thanks to a kind boss who understands jet lag) which is amazingly located just a 10 minute walk from my house (aren't I a super planner?). I haven't worked full time in over year so needless to say, just getting through a regular work day will be part of the challenge. But I'm finally doing what I've been working toward for so long.

And away she goes! Stay tuned...

(P.S. Pictures coming soon.)